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WANT to experience how you imagined Asia was supposed to be? Then you should be putting the little known and fascinating island

of BATAM (and Smiling Hill) high on your list.

PERHAPS you just want to get away from it all in the lush warmth of a very inexpensive, easily accessible tropical retreat? If so it’s all here with beautiful waterfront, marina and golf course resorts waiting to cater to your every whim with grace and style. Check: (www.nongsaresorts.com or www.batamholidays.com) and (www.paradisegolfandpleasure.co.uk).

But then there’s the REAL BATAM … a full-blown, low-cost PLAYGROUND right on the front doorstep of Singapore with a nightlife scene like the Thailand or Macau of yesteryear or the Singapore of half a century ago.

It’s raw, vibrant, sometimes exciting and with echoes of a frontier town yet at the same time captivating and welcoming. Facilities are surprisingly sophisticated and keep getting better year by year with new and established bars, nightclubs, discos, great local and excellent international food and many modern hotels from budget to luxury.

Best of all it is EXTRAORDINARILY INEXPENSIVE – food, accommodation, transport and most other costs are much lower than in places like Hong Kong, Singapore and even less than Thailand. They compare favourably with the Philippines.

Strangely Batam has remained very much below the radar for Western visitors who rarely think beyond Bali, Lombok and Jakarta when they consider Indonesia. Yet Singaporeans and Malaysians have been visiting en masse for years, especially for weekend getaways or nightlife tours.

The word is slowly spreading among Westerners, mainly through the many expatriate professionals and specialists who have taken up work contracts in what they thought would be a “hardship” post only to discover to their delight that the toughest part of the Batam experience is going home.

SMILING HILL is an ideal place from which to begin your exploration of Batam. It offers comfortable amenities, a beautiful pool complex, outstanding Western and local food and pleasant surroundings. You will be welcomed by attentive and smiling staff eager to make your stay memorable and hassle-free.

But Smiling Hill is much more than just another guesthouse or apartment complex. You will find yourself among friends – a fraternity of interesting, perceptive, informed and like-minded travellers and “old hand” resident expatriates who like to laugh and are always ready to share a raft of experiences, stories and advice.

The team at Smiling will give you up-to-date, practical and reliable information on the who what, when, where and why of the Batam entertainment, bar, food, touring and nightlife scene – what’s hot, what’s not, where to go and where not, what to pay, what to expect and how to handle the practicalities of a new and different culture.

If you are a newcomer then one of the Smiling team will accompany you on an introductory outing to both popular and lesser known venues. You instantly get an insider’s insights, avoid the wasted time and frustration of learning a new place by yourself from scratch and avoid the inevitable newbie pitfalls and rip-offs.

If you want to explore the island more widely (See Things to See and Do ), check out the local food venues (Restaurants and Cheap Eats), play some golf (Golf) or even tour some of the fascinating nearby islands (Tours and Excursions) then the Smiling team will happily make the arrangements and organize inexpensive transport and tour guides.

Smiling Hill Tariffs

Room rates at Smiling Hill are a very modest SGD$55 to SGD$60 per night.

Rooms are of 3-star standard with air conditioning, cable television, room fridge, minibar, complimentary wireless Internet and safety box.

There are discounted monthly room rates for long-stay guests ranging from $SGD800 (min 3 months).

Apartments are available for long-stay guests only. Tariffs range from SGD$975 per month plus outgoings (1-bedroom) to SGD$1,750 plus outgoings (luxury 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom).

Smiling Hill is the only accommodation or apartment complex in Batam owned, managed and operated by Westerners primarily for Westerners.

Visit Smiling Hill once and the odds are that you will be counting the days until you can come back again. You might never go home …!!!

BATAM is most certainly NOT a Bali. If you really want sweeping beaches, swimming pools, volcanoes, paddy fields, water buffalos, resort hotels, Western bars, hordes of hawkers, and planeloads of other boisterous Western holiday makers then Batam is probably not for you. Pure tourism is not a major activity in Batam and represents only about 10 per cent of the island’s economy. But Batam, as a thriving working environment, has its own attractions:

1. VIBRANT, DIFFERENT AND INTERESTING

The ferry crossing takes less than an hour but Batam is so different to sanitised Singapore that it might just as well be light years away. Here you will find big new 21st Century landmark buildings surrounded by bustling, busy traditional Asia with its hawkers, street markets and food vendors.

· A little bit messy – yes.

· A little bit chaotic – yes.

· A little bit smelly – in places, absolutely.

But you’ll feel the raw energy and excitement in the air. If you are curious, interested and open minded then every day in Batam can be an adventure!

If you feel more comfortable with order and predictability then you can choose the international luxury resorts of Nongsa along the Northern beaches (www.nongsaresorts.com) and Waterfront City (www.harris-batam.com) (www.holidaycity.com/holiday-inn-batam/index.htm) Generally they are excellent and often they offer promotional rates or packages. (www.acacia-hotel.com/batam/index.html).

But unless you are an old Asia or Latin America hand then on the rest of Batam there’s a world like you probably have never experienced before. Open your eyes, open your heart, crank up your sense of humour and enjoy a new reality!

2. EASY AND CONVENIENT

Fly direct to Singapore. Breeze through Changi Airport with its hassle-free passenger systems and facilities.

Take a taxi to Harbour Front regional Ferry Terminal (about 20 minutes and about SGD$20). Take a clean, fast, modern Wavemaster (Berlian) ferry to Harbour Bay terminal in Batam (less than an hour and just SGD$48 for a return ticket) (Travelling to Batam ). Obtain a Visa-on-Arrival (10 to 15 minutes in the queue and US$10 for 6 nights or US$25 for 29 nights) (Entry and Visa Requirements). Take a Port Taxi to Smiling Hill or your hotel (10 minutes and 40,000 rupiah – about SGD$6).

3. SO VERY INEXPENSIVE

If you have $US, $AUD, $SGD, GBP (Pounds Sterling) or EUR (Euros) you will be amazed at how far they will go on Batam.

When did you last enjoy a room in a luxury 4-star hotel for around $US55 to $60? Or pay as little as $US30 to $35 for an excellent 3-star plus room? Should you be on a tight budget there are quite adequate hotel rooms at around half these prices.

You can dine out on delicious seafoods at a pujasera (open air food court) for around US$10 or less per person, including beer and soft drinks. Buy a can of beer at a supermarket for about 90c, a large bottle (2 cans) for $US1.75 at a food market or pay $2.50 for a can at a Bule (Western) bar.

Have a haircut and shave with shoulder and scalp massage for around $US3.50. Or you can go the whole hog and luxuriate in a 45 minute “cream bath” hair conditioning treatment and scalp massage for around $US4.50. Or go for a very professional and relaxing one and a half hour traditional body massage for about US$12.

A taxi will cost about $US3 to most destinations in Nagoya and there is plenty of cheap shopping to be had in the department stores of Nagoya and Batam Centre, especially for clothing, bags and electricals.

NOTE: The bad news is that liquor and wines are heavily taxed in Batam and throughout all of Indonesia and are relatively expensive. This is a place where you certainly should pick up your favourite bottle from the duty free store before departing Singapore (1 bottle per person only).

4. WELCOMING AND SAFE

On Batam you will experience an easy and ready acceptance from the overwhelming majority of the local population. Some are shy and few speak very much if any English. But a smile and a hello usually will bring a beaming response from men, women and children alike. If you can manage a few words of Indonesian then the response will be even warmer.

Unlike some other more remote areas of Indonesia there is a friendly familiarity with Bules (foreigners) and recognition that they are important contributors to the local economy. If you have a problem typically you will find local people going out of their way to help and guide you, though there are times when you need to exercise your judgment and common sense.

For single male visitors – even older or shy men - it is very easy to meet and date local young women. The factory industries of Batam attract many, many girls from all over Indonesia in search of employment, adventure and a better life. Many are happy to go out with and welcome attention from Bule men, and not just the young and handsome.

These young women enjoy the access to hotels, restaurants and other venues they otherwise could not aspire to or afford. Some are hoping that that they might find a kind and caring husband who will give them a more comfortable and rewarding lifestyle in Indonesia or somewhere else. This very often happens.

And you can put thoughts of bombings, visitor warnings and worries about personal security aside (See Personal Safety and Security ). Follow the common sense rules that apply for anyone visiting a foreign country and you are unlikely to experience any security or safety worries.

5. ABOVE ALL … BECAUSE IT’S FUN

The sights, the atmosphere, the bars, the karaokes, the discos, the dating scene, the balmy evenings in the food courts, the kalong restaurants on stilts over the water with live seafood direct from the cages below, the golf, the motorbike taxis, the shy and smiling locals, the routine “Hello Mister” from the local youngsters and the jokes and stories from the resident old Asia hands ...

If you are open to new experiences then all of this can come together to make your visit an absolute ball - experiences like you wouldn’t believe and laughs all the way. The odds are that you will be remembering and talking about these great moments for the rest of your life!!

IF YOU are looking for a typical resort and sightseeing style of holiday then Batam probably is NOT for you. That isn’t to say that there aren’t excellent resorts and plenty of interesting things to do and see – there are. But Batam is not really a developed and organized tourist holiday destination. Rather it is perhaps better suited to:

Regional travellers

If you are planning a swing through South East Asia to places like Phuket, Bangkok, the Philippines, Cambodia or Vietnam then Batam in Indonesia can be an excellent addition to your itinerary. Batam is easy, interesting and cheap (huge savings compared with Singapore). You may be surprised at how little extra it will add to your airline fares from home and how little it will cost you to add extra travel using Asian-based budget airlines like Tiger , Air Asia or Jetstar (www.tigerairways.com) (www.airasia.com) (www.jetstar.com). Simply fly in to Changi Airport in Singapore and take the ferry across the Strait to Harbour Bay on Batam.

Short and weekend breaks

If you are living or working in the region (Singapore, Malaysia, Darwin, other locations in Indonesia) Batam represents is a good option to “get away from it all” for a few days and rest and recuperate at a resort (www.nongsaresorts.com) (www.batamholidays.com), play some golf (www.paradisegolfandpleasure.co.uk), check out the nightlife (Nightlife -Bars, Pubs, Discos), try some adventurous (and delicious) dining (Restaurants and Cheap Eats) do some laid-back sightseeing (Things to See and Do).

As an alternative to a Singapore stopover

If you are travelling Europe or the UK to the Pacific region or vice versa and need an R & R break in your journey then Batam is an ideal alternative, particularly if you want something new and different to the predictability and sterility of modern and expensive Singapore.

A base to explore South East Asia Indonesia

If you want to spend some serious time exploring the countries of the fascinating Asian region then it would be hard to find a more convenient, comfortable and inexpensive base than Smiling Hill on Batam. For the international explorer Batam offers all the conveniences of Singapore without the hassles and the expense – you can be in the Budget terminal at Changi Airport within two hours and from there take one of the frequent flights to the region’s most popular destinations. You can leave excess luggage in store at Smiling Hill and travel light and easy.

Similarly if you wish to take a look at more of Indonesia’s 17,500 islands (and there are fascinating things to see and do throughout the archipelago). There are some 60 domestic flights in and out of Batam’s Hang Nadim airport every day and, except during holiday peaks, the fares are very inexpensive. It is very easy to visit Jakarta, the famous Lake Toba in Sumatra, interesting cities like Bandung and Jogjakarta and famously beautiful locations like North Sulawesi and Bali.

Visa runs

If you have already relocated to another country in the region and need to make periodic excursions to renew your Visa status then you should have Batam on your list places for a quick visit. It’s cheap, easy and interesting, reachable through Singapore on the popular budget airlines and a refreshing alternative to places like Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Checking Retirement or Relocation options

If you are giving any thought to sooner or later retiring or relocating to Asia then you owe it to yourself to check out Indonesia and Batam and Smiling Hill in particular. With its proximity to Singapore and level of development Batam offers many advantages over other locations in the region and the team at Smiling Hill are able to provide accurate and comprehensive information on issues like property ownership, costs, Visa options and health services.

BEING less than an hour from Singapore makes Batam very accessible from just about anywhere in the world. Singapore’s Changi is the major regional hub for South East Asia and is one of the most convenient and efficient airports in the world.

From Changi take a taxi to the Harbour Front Ferry Terminal (about 20 minutes, taxis metered, cost about $SGD20 or about $US14 - note that a surcharge applies for taxis in Singapore between 12 midnight and 6am).

Enter from the Harbour Front taxi drop-off, turn right and walk through the shopping centre (you will pass McDonalds on your left) until you reach the SECOND escalator to the upper floors. There will be money changers and Cruise Centre desks to your right and a Cocoa Trees chocolates outlet and the Xin Food Court to your left.

Take the escalator up one floor, turn left at the hawker stands and then left again (past MJG Bags and the Fruition outlet). Then turn left yet again up a short escalator to the ticketing desks for the Wavemaster (Berlian), Penguin or Batam Fast Ferry Services (all good). Buy a return ticket (about $SGD48 including taxes and charges and a fuel price levy). Wavemaster (Berlian) to Harbour Bay and Penguin to Batam Centre offer the highest service frequencies.

If you are planning to stay in a Nagoya Hotel or spend most of your time in and around the main business and entertainment district it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED that you take a Wavemaster ferry to HARBOUR BAY.

This newest Batam terminal opened late in 2006. It is less crowded and very efficient with excellent facilities, including a Visa on Arrivals desk. More importantly it is located at Batu Ampar right next door to the main commercial centre of Nagoya - just down the road from the Pacific Palace and Planet Holiday hotels.

The ferry journey to Harbour Bay is faster and you will save another 20 minutes or so on ground transport at the Batam end. There are services to HARBOUR BAY from Singapore about every hour from 7.55am until 9.45pm and from Batam to Singapore from 6.45am until 9.30pm (all local times) - Download Wavemaster-Berlian Timetable.

You must purchase a ticket at the Harbour Front ferry terminal in Singapore a minimum of 30 minutes before the departure time (this is strictly enforced at the ticketing desks).

The Singapore ticketing desk will give you a computer generated partially-completed Indonesian Immigration Entry Card along with your boarding pass and return ticket.

After purchasing your ticket you can book through your luggage to Batam at the desk one floor down on the second floor near the departure gate. You are entitled to check 20 kilos of luggage per passenger. Excess luggage will be charged.

Proceed through security and immigration and take the escalator down to the departure hall where there is plenty of seating and a duty free shop. While waiting for your ferry boarding call complete your Indonesian Immigration Entry Card.

The ferry crossing to Harbour Bay takes about 50 minutes to Harbour Bay while the crossing to Batam Centre takes about 70 minutes. After clearing Immigration at your destination terminal take a Port Taxi to your hotel (about FIVE minutes from Harbour Bay and 20 to 25 minutes from Batam Centre to Nagoya, the main hotel, business and entertainment district).

Taxi desks are located just outside the exit doors as you walk out of the arrivals halls. The Port taxis are air conditioned and clean and the drivers are usually courteous and helpful. Standard fares are charged to city locations – inquire at the taxi desk.

It is a good idea to have some Singapore or US dollars to cover Visa on Arrival costs (see below). Money changers and ATMs are available at the Batam Centre and Harbour Bay ferry terminals to obtain Indonesian rupiah. You will need rupiah to pay taxi fares.

With regular ferry services from Singapore to Batam from around 7.30am until 9.50pm it is possible to make same-day ferry crossings from flights arriving at Changi up to around 8pm (Singapore time). Later arrivals will require an overnight stay in Singapore before making the ferry crossing next day.

Likewise if you are planning to take an early flight out of Changi (before about 11am Singapore time) you will again need to overnight in Singapore.

The first ferry out of Batam is at 6.05am local time from Batam Centre or 6.45am from Harbour Bay (with Singapore an hour ahead that means departures at 7.05am or 7.45am Singapore time). Travel time, immigration clearances at Harbour Front Ferry Terminal in Singapore and a taxi to the airport will require up to two hours.

You will notice at Harbour Front in Singapore that there also are ferry services to SEKUPANG and WATERFRONT CITY in Batam. Unless you have a specific reason for going there, DO NOT take a ferry to Sekupang or Waterfront City – these are locations well away from the main town centres.

TO ENTER Indonesia you need a passport valid for at LEAST SIX MONTHS from your date of entry. Travellers from MOST Western countries can obtain a single entry Visa on Arrival for 30 days ($US25) or seven days ($US10). You can check at:

www.indonesianembassy.org.uk/consular_visa_type_arrival

There are exceptions where a Visa must be obtained through an Indonesian Embassy or Consulate prior to travel – if your country of origin is not included in the list provided through the above link then check as to visa procedures with your travel agent or nearest Indonesian Embassy.

NOTE: The seven-day Visa actually entitles you to a stay of only SIX nights and the 30-day visa to 29 nights.

If purchasing a Visa on Arrival try to ensure you have US currency or SGD as rupiah are not accepted. You may be asked to show you have a return ticket to your country of embarkation (Singapore), though this is unlikely.

Visitors from ASEAN countries which have reciprocal arrangements with Indonesia are issued a FREE 30-day (29 night) tourist Visa on arrival.

You can legally and readily extend a single entry visitor or business Visa from Batam by making a visit to Singapore and then re-entering Batam. If you do this often or over an extended period, however, you may be quizzed by Immigration officials about whether you are working illegally in Indonesia or asked to demonstrate your means of support.

If you are intending to do business or explore business opportunities in any way during your visit then be sure to tick the BUSINESS box (not the Visiting Friends or Relatives or the Tourist box) on your Immigration entry card. This wil